Breast of Lamb Ste Ménéhould
from 'Meat' by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall
(to be published Spring 2003)

1 breast of lamb
2 carrots, sliced
2 onions, sliced
a glass of white wine
a glass of water
a sprig of rosemary, or thyme, or
   both
salt, fresh ground black pepper

to finish:
mustard
one egg, beaten
dried breadcrumbs
100g  butter, melted

The breast of lamb is the giveaway cut of the animal (in some butchers’ shops literally), yet most British cooks these days have probably never got to grips with one.  If that includes you, you’re missing out.

This dish, originally brought to our attention by Elizabeth David, is the one to make you a convert.  It’s something that will delight anyone who is ever excited by the words “crispy” and “breadcrumbs” in a recipe.

Place the breast of lamb in an oven-proof dish or casserole, cut into two halves if necessary to fit, with the carrots, onions and herbs scattered under and over it and the wine and water poured over. Season well with salt and pepper and cover the dish with foil (or its lid).

Bake in an oven preheated to 140ºC for two and half to three hours, removing the dish to turn and baste the breast two or three times, until the meat is completely  tender.   

As soon as the meat is cool enough to handle,  slip the rib bones out of the meat by tugging gently with your fingers. Press the boneless breasts between two chopping boards, or two flat plates, with a weight on top (a  few full jam jars or large tomato tins will do). Leave in a cool larder or the fridge for a couple of hours, or overnight.

To finish the dish, slice the cold,  pressed breast meat into two-finger width, one-finger length slices. Brush the slices with a little mustard, dip in beaten egg, and press firmly into a bowl of breadcrumbs so they are well coated. Arrange on a wire rack in a roasting tin, brush each with a little melted butter, and place in the centre of an oven pre-heated to 180º C. After 15 minutes, turn on the oven grill (if it doesn’t have one whack the oven up to maximum heat), to get them very crisp (a touch blackened but not  incinerated), first on one side, then the other.

Serve on hot plates, to waiting guests, with a piquant sauce, such as tartare, salsa verde, or simply a very mustardy vinaigrette. To make this a meal, rather than a starter or snack, extend the accompaniments  to a pile of creamy mash and a watercress and orange salad.